Pohlednice z Ho Či Minova Města



Pozdní ráno živené kocovinou a závěrečnými takty písně ‚The end‘ od nesmrtelné ‚The Doors‘. Věci jsou rozházené po místnosti, ze stropu visící vrtule ventilátoru, které zuřivě lechtají, zlověstně připomínají ty větší – vrtulníkové. Na kraji postele, kde leží kapitán Willard, je také prázdná láhev koňaku Martell Cordon Bleu, pistole. Přes žaluzie pronikají sluneční paprsky a hluk z ulice. Kapitán je roztáhl prsty a procedil skrz zuby: „Saigone… Sakra, pořád jsem v Saigonu.“

Je zcela legitimní myslet při zmínce o někdejším názvu největšího města Vietnamu a hl. její jižní části, která existovala krátkou dobu.nebo do nějakého jiného hollywoodského filmu, řekněme s všemocným Chuckem Norrisem v hlavní roli. Asociace spojené s jeho jménem mají barvy krve, pach kouře a plameny jako džungle spálené napalmovými bombami.

Od vietnamské války (nebo druhé války v Indočíně, jak se také říká) uplynulo téměř půl století. Obraz chaotické metropole, ze které se tisíce civilistů zoufale snaží evakuovat ze střechy americké ambasády, přeplněné helikoptérami, než padne do rukou Vietnamské lidové armády, se rok od roku mění nepředstavitelnou rychlostí. .

Válka ve Vietnamu, zejména v Ho Či Minově Městě, jak se Saigon od roku 1976 nazývá, je nevyčerpatelným tématem zájmu turistů. Pouze ti, kteří neznají tradice, kulturu a ducha Vietnamců, očekávají, že na náměstích, v parcích a bulvárech najdou okázalé kolosální monumenty, které oslavují vítězství získané po desetiletí krvavého boje proti největší světové vojenské síle, téměř zcela zničené země a více než 2 miliony obětí. Žádné však nejsou. Abychom si oživili vzpomínky na dobu, kdy byla tato země hlášena dnem i nocí a obávaná, je potřeba zajít do pár muzeí a to by bylo vše. Naštěstí ve městě nejsou žádné stopy války nebo nejsou vidět.

Panorama města Ho Chi Minh City

Mezinárodní letiště Tan Son Nhatkteré město prostě objalo a které se nachází pouhých 6 km severovýchodně od centra osmimilionové metropole, je pro mnohé místem prvního setkání s touto zemí.

Není špatné si připomenout, že ranvej tohoto letiště byla téměř deset let jednou z nejvytíženějších na světě. Dnes na ní přistávají letadla plná byznysmenů, zvědavců, Vietnamců vracejících se z návštěv příbuzných z celého světa a před padesáti lety vojenská letadla a statisíce amerických vojáků s velkou úzkostí a jediným přáním – vrátit se do jejich vlast živá. Jako by vzduchem stále jiskřily jiskry letadla plného vietnamských dětí, připravených k evakuaci do bezpečnějšího světa, které havarovalo a vzplanulo na samém konci nesmyslnosti zformované do válečného konfliktu.

Pod oválnými čepicemi a precizně upravenými účesy policistů, kteří mají na starosti hraniční a celní formality, nechybí úsměv. Pevné a na míru šité uniformy, vážné tváře a svižné pohyby rukou silně otiskují razítko do víza v pasu. Vzhledem k tomu, že ve Vietnamské socialistické republice stojí v čele vlády Komunistická strana Vietnamu (také jediná legální strana), je komunistická ikonografie v ulicích měst a vesnic a dokonce i na samotném letišti podobná jako např. na co byli obyvatelé bývalé SFR Jugoslávie zvyklí.

Kladivo, srp a hvězda na vlajkách, billboardech a plakátech s kresbami dělníků v montérkách s torzy jako Tarzan, helmy na hlavách, za továrními stroji a uchvácené ženy na poli s pasy rýže, usměvavé oči mířící do slunce, děti v bílé košile s červenými šátky kolem krku. Nadšené, ale sebevědomé postavy umělců ve službách party najdete všude, vedle zaparkovaného oficiálního Mercedesu na chodníku v centru města, za prodavačem manga na tržnici, na zdi hned vedle karaoke baru, kde se mladí Australané se opíjejí až do svítání, jak to umí jen oni. Na takových panelech nebudou žádné kresby o sociálních rozdílech, které jsou vyjádřené a viditelné.

V závislosti na roční době a citlivosti nezvyklého organismu na vysokou vlhkost vzduchu, která je pro tento kout planety běžná, na škále snášenlivosti a lehkosti dýchání a pohybu těch, kteří jsou zvyklí na různé meteorologické podmínky ukazatel se pohybuje od optimálního k téměř nesnesitelnému. Proto pečlivě volte roční období a navštěvujte v době, kdy málo prší a kdy je nižší vlhkost vzduchu, tedy od listopadu do dubna. Bez ohledu na roční období, den či noc se ulice velkých vietnamských měst jen hemží chodci, prodavači, dětmi ve školních uniformách (samozřejmě jen ve dne), studenty krčícími se na miniaturních budkách seřazených na chodníku, kterého se kolemjdoucím nějak podaří projít.

Bez ohledu na roční období, den nebo noc, ulice velkých vietnamských měst jsou plné chodců a prodejců

V řekách provozu a potocích, které se do nich na křižovatkách vlévají, bez ohledu na počet účastníků a zdánlivě chaotický tok plyne vše bez větších zdržení, podle jakési tiché dohody a nepsaných pravidel, jejichž hlavními vlastnostmi jsou trpělivost a respekt k ostatním účastníkům. Za nimi jsou scény typické pro zašlou a zadýchanou indočínskou metropoli v nekonečném závodě s budoucností a modernizací, kde jí na krk neustále dýchá tradice, minulost, zaostalost. Ve stínu vrzajících věží z oceli a skla zůstávají skromné ​​a zchátralé budovy s improvizovanými trhy s ovocem a zeleninou na chodnících před nimi, vůně polévek připravovaných v kotlích zavřených restaurací nacpaných podél haustorií a na schodištích vchody do budovy se mísí s vůní znovu použitého oleje na smažení hranolků nejslavnějšího světového řetězce rychlého občerstvení, jehož jméno začíná na M, který zabíral přízemí sousedního nákupního centra.

Z letiště do centrální – tedy první okres, přichází neobvykle rychle, protože Ho Či Minovo Město má více obyvatel než celé Srbsko dohromady. Je to část města, kde se nachází většina náměstí, promenád, muzeí a památek, které by měl navštívit každý, kdo do tohoto města zavítá.

Centrální náměstí je to vlastně prostorná a dlouhá promenáda protáhlého obdélníkového tvaru (její oficiální název je je Nguyen Hue) dlážděná žulou, ohraničená několika lavičkami a solitéry, v jejichž přízemí se nacházejí prodejny známých i neznámých světových značek oblečení, obuvi a techniky, dále pak knihkupectví, bufety a restaurace.

Moderní mrakodrapy jsou dominantou nového centra Ho Či Minova Města

Téměř všechny budovy na náměstí (a širším okolí), které nejsou výplodem vietnamského hospodářského zázraku, který stále trvá, a které svou elegancí, vážností a harmonií vybočují z modernistického vzoru srostlého ve skle, oceli a betonu neonový podpis rovných a přísných linií, jsou nejčastěji dědictvím francouzské koloniální architektury.

Určitě ano Hotel Rex (Rex) patří k té vybrané a sympatické společnosti. Svou kariéru jako luxusní hotel jako showroom pro vozy Citroen začal již v roce 1927 a prošel několika rekonstrukcemi a renovacemi. Na začátku šedesátých let tam pobývalo 400 amerických vojáků a během války se hotel stal domovem novinářů, kteří o něm informovali. Slavné tiskové konference amerického vojenského velení svolané v 17:00 cynicky nazvané „Five O’Clock Follies“ a také střešní bar, kde lidé klábosili, báli se, učili se a relaxovali s bzučením vrtulí vrtulníku v dálce nebo Hendrixovými kytarovými riffy. z místního rozhlasu, který na jaře 1975 zcela obmění repertoár.

V okruhu několika set metrů je také krásná budova Městské divadlo známý také jako Opera města, mladší a skromnější bratranec opery Garnier v Paříži, který sloužil architektům jako inspirace a vzor. Vyznačuje se zdobným stylem 3. francouzské republiky, změnila kapacitu i účel, takže v něm na čas sídlila dolní komora jihovietnamského parlamentu.

Krásná budova Městského divadla, známá také jako Městská opera

Ho Či Minovo Město nemá své Quasimodo, ale má svou Notre Dame. Katolická bazilika Panny Marie Neposkvrněného početí“, kdysi „Naše Paní Saigonská“, poněkud skromnější krásy, se úspěšně snaží adaptovat na komunisticko-modernistické prostředí, ve kterém se ocitla a které ji zpovzdálí pozoruje. Dlouhá léta a desetiletí v důchodu trávila v širokém zeleném pásu kolem ní.

Hoi An si i přes zvyšující se počet turistů zachoval své autentické kouzlo

Na konci 19. století, kdy byla postavena z materiálů, které se do Saigonu přepravovaly až z Toulouse, v místě, kde kdysi stávala pagoda, byla její dvojice 58 metrů vysokých věží nejvyšší v celé zemi. město, které bylo dvakrát hlavním městem Francie. Indočína. Tvrdí se, že v roce 2005 žulová socha Panny Marie, umístěná na zelené náhorní plošině před bazilikou, uronila slzu a vyvolala pozornost veřejnosti, úzkost a naději nemnoha katolických věřících.

Katolická bazilika "Panny Marie Neposkvrněného početí"

Dělníci si toho zázraku všimli jako první Centrální městské pošty, když se blížili ke svému pracovišti, které se nachází hned vedle katedrály. V soutěži o nejkrásnější francouzská neokoloniální vydání tohoto města by Posta patřila do užšího výběru. Jeho přezrálá fasáda v barvě manga a prostorná a elegantní centrální hala evokují nostalgii a vedou k otázce: kdy a proč jsme přestali posílat pohlednice? Stěny v něm jsou pomalované velkými mapami Indočíny, atmosféra je staromódní, slavnostní, na stěně naproti vchodu je velký portrét „strýčka Ho“ a pod ním hodiny.






Autorkou tohoto článku je: Redaktorka Milan Kalivoda
Zdrojem fotografií v tomto příspěvku je: pixabay.com a freepik.com

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