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Destinace – Casablanca – největší město Maghrebu – Travel Magazine

Milan Kalivoda


Casablanca – největší město Maghrebu

Foto: Mehmet A. z Pixabay

Co přesně vás napadne jako první, když slyšíte slovo „Casablanca“? Přirozeně máte před očima obrazy toho, co jste si představovali Humphrey Bogart v detailu a Ingrid Bergmanová s očima plnýma slz, jako Rick a Lisa Hollywoodská klasika stejného jména. Vylepšená verze asociace s některými obsahuje melodii písně „As time is by by“ v pozadí klávesisty Sama nebo slavnou větu „Myslím, že toto je začátek úžasného přátelství“ pronesenou na samém konci film. Málokdo si vzpomene na bandu hudebních lupičů shromážděných kolem kapely „Balkan Ekspres“, pravděpodobně proto, že jejich vůdce věří, že se nachází někde ve Švýcarsku. Jak to, že v bělehradské Autokomandě je keramický salon se stejným názvem jako květinářství? Zajímavý.

Agadir

Casablanca – největší město Maroka

Největší město Maroka a celého Maghrebu (oblast ohraničená Nilem z východu, Saharou z jihu a Atlantikem a Středozemním mořem ze severu) nepatří mezi města, do kterých budou turisté utíkat jako první. Především proto, že ke svému názvu nemá přívlastek „královský“ jako Fes, Rabat a Meknes. Slavný pro průmyslová, přístavní, rušná a není to z turistického hlediska nijak přehnaně zajímavé město, takže, jak někteří říkají, by nebyla velká škoda toto město na výletě Marokem nenavštívit. Příběh před vámi je v hlubokém rozporu s tímto předpokladem.

Leo „Afričan“berbersko-andaluský diplomat a zeměpisec ve svém kapitálním díle „Popis Afriky“ ze 16. století, ve kterém píše o Maghrebu a údolí Nilu, říká, že ještě v r. 8. století př. n. l. v místě, kde se dnes nachází Casablanca, existovala přístav a město zvané Anfa jako součást berberského království Bargavata. Království zmizelo pod náporem Almoravid. Anfa se ale dále rozvíjela v důležitý přístav na pobřeží Atlantského oceánu, zejména za vlády dynastie. Marináda. Jeho důležitost upoutala pozornost k Portugalcůmkteří nejprve vybombardují město a poté postaví osadu s domy natřené na bílo které vznikly kolem pevnosti, kterou postavili. Volají mu Brankův příběh (Casa Branca). Pozdější kolonizátoři a thalassokraté, Španělé, vyhodili „r“ a vytvořili název města, který zůstal dodnes.

Vývoj v 19. století

U 19. století město se rozvíjí především díky tomu Maroko byl Největší britský dodavatel vlny. Z přístavu, který krok za krokem vplul do oceánu, vplouvaly lodě naložené drahocenným zbožím do náruče zuřícího textilního průmyslu.

Tak přítomnou a viditelnou stopu však na tváři Casablanky nikdo nezanechal Francouzi. Závodili proti sobě a každý sám za sebe, kolonizátoři s neukojitelnými expanzivními a vykořisťovatelskými choutky a architekti a inženýři, kteří chtěli vdechnout nový život městu, ve kterém by chtěli brzy bude polovina populace evropského původu. Předtím Francouzi město bombardovali, provedli pozemní invazi a způsobili smrt 15 000 lidí. Formalizace okupace Maroka je „smyta“. dohoda z Fezu (1912), poté byl architektem a urbanistou z Paris Saint-Denis – Henry Prost mohl se pustit do práce.

Začátek stavby – široké bulváry a elegantní promenády

Místo nevzhledných rybářských chat promíchaných s „omamnou“ vůní šupin, bídy a potu, soustředěných kolem prašných uliček, se staví široké bulváry lemované palmami a elegantní promenády podél pobřeží. Otevírají se jako první hotely, kavárny a restauracea nové srdce města začíná bít Náměstí Francie. jižně od Medina (staré jádro Casablanky, každé marocké město má svou medinu), kolem náměstí, které mělo ohlašovat a ztělesňovat nového ducha Casablancy a „ville européenne“, a kterému se láskyplně říkalo Holubí náměstív dalších patnácti letech vznikly reprezentativní stavby, které jsou kulisami dodnes nejfotogeničtější, „nulových“ bodů města. Funkční, elegantní, atraktivní a prostorné, dnes náměstí nese jméno Muhammad V a je to správné místo, kde si naplánovat schůzku a začít se stýkat s tímto městem.

Architektura Casablanca

Foto: stratageme2015 od Pixabay

Pan Prost je se svými kolegy slavné budovy obklopovaly náměstí, nechat je „dýchat“ a mluvit samy za sebe, a přesto společně budovat harmonický a kompaktní celek s ostatními. V širokém kruhu čelem k sobě slavnostně zasalutují Budova soudumonumentální budova postavená ve francouzském stylu Art Deco a Centrální banka Marocké království „Al Maghrib“, což lze poznat podle štíhlých sloupů před vchodem z roku 1937. Existuje také Pošta kterou zdobí architektonická harmonie francouzsko-koloniálního a neomaurského stylu. Poněkud vážnější městská administrativní budova Vilaya (Wilaya), poznáme to podle věže s hodinami, pak jsou tam Francouzský konzulát a neobvyklý, futuristický multifunkční celek divadla, největší na africkém kontinentudílo z roku 2020 od Christiana de Porzampark.

Když padne noc…

Když padne večer a světla ho osvětlí, velký krásný ovál kašna se stává „první dámou“ náměstí. A je bezmocná, aby se bránila pomocí arzenálu vodních fontán proti velkému hejnu holubů, kteří obléhají ji i náměstí. Pravděpodobně se živě třepotaly 8. srpna 1943, kdy zde slavný francouzský generál a státník pronesl projev. Charles de gaulle.

Jen pár minut chůze odtud Hasan druhá třídakterý je pojmenován po králi, o kterém si povíme více později, je dosaženo náměstí Organizace spojených národů. Na začátku století, známým způsobem francouzských urbanistů a architektů, starý suk Kbir byla vymazána z tváře staré Casablanky a přes nové náměstí létala věž s hodinami. Tento nový symbol města netrval dlouho, byl zbořen v roce 1848. a do té doby se náměstí jmenovalo po něm, ale proto přežilo dodnes Hotel Excelsior. modernizace, v roce 1975dorazila na náměstí Organizace spojených národů koule – souhvězdí francouzského umělce a architekta marockého původu Ževakoa. Zdánlivě jednoduchý a skromný se postupem času stal symbolem nového ducha města.

Jídlo v Casablance

Foto: TheUjulala z Pixabay

Je čas na přestávku. V čajovnách a hospodách kolem tržnice se místo piva, vína nebo „nedej bože kořalky“ popíjí mátový čaj s čerstvými snítkami ve sklenici, vymačkané ovocné šťávy a zeleniny a Káva s mlékem – nus nus. Jeden nápoj, který se barevností ingrediencí, svou výživou, ale i vzhledem pohodlně vyšplhá na stupně vítězů. Základ Zaze je avokádová šťáva, do které se přidávají nadrobno nakrájené datle, mandle, plátky banánu, fíky, různé sušenky a šlehačka. Podává se ve vysokých krásných sklenicích se stojánkem a je schopen nahradit slušné jídlo.

Vedou bulváry, které nejčastěji nesou jména marockých králů břehů vzrušeného Atlantiku.






Autorkou tohoto článku je: Redaktorka Milan Kalivoda
Zdrojem fotografií v tomto příspěvku je: pixabay.com a freepik.com

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